New Orleans has more than its fair share of celebrated culinary contributions, including gumbo, jambalaya, beignets, boiled crawfish, bananas Foster, and of course, the po-boy. From classic roast beef with gravy and fried oyster loaves to off-the-wall riffs on the famous Big Easy sammie, po-boys are a local staple and must for visitors.
So how did po-boys come about? Well, much like the Crescent City’s illustrious history, there are various creative interpretations of how and when NOLA’s version of the sub came to be. The most commonly accepted rendition has Clovis and Benjamin Martin, two brothers who moved to New Orleans from the Bayou Lafourche area in the 1920s and operated Martin Brothers French Market Restaurant and Coffee Stand, as the po-boy’s creators. As the story goes, the Martin Brothers, both former streetcar operators, vowed to support striking streetcar workers by offering them a free meal. When a striking union member would take a break from the picket line and head to Martin Brothers for some free grub (typically fried potatoes, gravy, and spare bits of roast beef on French bread), a restaurant employee would yell out to the kitchen, “Here comes another poor boy,” which eventually became synonymous with the sandwich. Although dug out French bread sandwiches, filled with a variety of tasty tidbits, were sold prior to the existence of the Martin brothers eatery, it was Clovis and Benjamin who supposedly coined the name “poor boy.” Over the years, the name morphed into what is commonly seen today, some version of po-boy. Note: If you order your po-boy “dressed” it will most always come with mayo, shredded lettuce, tomatoes and probably dill pickles.
Johnny’s Po-Boys – 511 St Louis St.
What began in 1950 as a small grocery and sandwich shop founded by Johnny and Betty DeGrusha, has evolved into the oldest family owned and operated po-boy shop in the French Quarter. Beloved by locals and visitors for its homey, sizable breakfast and lunch plates and extensive selection of flavor-packed, overstuffed po-boys, Johnny’s continues to churn out reasonably-priced, quality New Orleans classics ranging from jambalaya and red beans and rice to fried seafood platters and chicken parmesan. And with over 40 po-boys on the menu, from alligator sausage to veal cutlet, there’s certainly something delectable to please every palate. The po-boy pros at Johnny’s go through approximately 300 loaves of Leidenheimer French bread per day (about 900 sandwiches) to create their crowd-pleasing favorites like roast beef with gravy (the beef is boiled on the stovetop with onions and bell peppers, rather than oven-baked like most) and classic fried shrimp. Other best-sellers include Johnny’s Special—roast beef, grilled ham, American and Swiss cheeses—and the Judge Bosetta, a savory fusion of ground beef, Italian and hot sausages, served dressed with Swiss cheese, and house-made meatballs simmered in a robust red gravy accented by melted provolone cheese. Seafood fans will be wowed by the flawlessly fried soft-shell crab, oyster and crab cake po-boys, all of which showcase fresh Louisiana shellfish. Can’t decide? Try the best of both Surf & Turf po-boy, which combines hot roast beef topped with fried shrimp. First timers should check out the half po-boy of your choice served with either gumbo or red beans and rice. Or add one of their other enticing sides such as fried green tomatoes with remoulade, boudin balls or hush puppies, and be sure to save room for their yummy homemade bread pudding. If you’re in need of a hearty eye-opener, the cheese omelet po-boy, shrimp and grits, or Johnny’s famous house-made, jumbo biscuit slathered with white gravy will certainly hit the spot. The bustling old-school eatery has a super casual, nostalgic vibe with friendly counter service, an open kitchen and cozy seating. Today, the quintessential New Orleans restaurant rests in the skilled hands of the well-seasoned third generation, who proudly carry on the time-honored traditions that have made Johnny’s one of the city’s dining legends.
Killer PoBoys – 219 Dauphine St.; 811 Conti St. at Erin Rose Bar
If you’re the type who prefers to march to your own beat, then Killer PoBoys will be your spirit sandwich shop! What began as a pop-up inside of Erin Rose Bar—a lively Irish pub located in the heart of the French Quarter, catering to local regulars, as well as Bourbon Street partiers in need of something hearty to devour—has grown into a brick-and-mortar storefront referred to as Big Killer, which showcases a more extensive menu. Both locations serve up “internationally inspired, chef-crafted, New Orleans-style sandwiches” that are sure to thrill your taste buds. The innovative sandwich architects behind Killer PoBoys dream up boldly flavored, unconventional combinations such as their best-seller Seared Gulf Shrimp, which combines well-seasoned, perfectly seared plump Gulf shrimp with pickled carrots, daikon radish, cucumbers, Sriracha aioli and fresh herbs; or the totally addictive Glazed Pork Belly: rum and ginger-glazed generous strips of pork belly with lime cabbage slaw and garlic aioli. Chef/Owner Eric Baucom, one of the three chefs/creators of Killer PoBoys along with Cam Boudreaux and wife April Bellow (all New Orleans natives who came from the fine dining world), is particularly proud of the Chorizo PoBoy. This skillfully crafted flavor-bomb promises to have you begging for more blends with its house-made spicy chorizo with chile lime aioli, pumpkin seed hummus, pickled red cabbage, fresh jalapenos and queso duro. Just one bite of Killer PoBoy’s Black Beer Beef Debris (a modern twist on classic roast beef) features black beer braised Louisiana Wagyu beef with house-pickled green beans, banana peppers and horseradish sauce will have you thinking that you’ve died and gone to heaven. Vegetarians fear not! The new-school po-boy shop also offers a sublime selection of meatless options, such as Thai BBQ Tofu—locally made tofu marinated in Thai BBQ sauce served with lemongrass and Thai chili mirliton slaw, spiced peanuts and coconut—and the Roasted Sweet Potato po-boy, which tastefully blends spiced roasted sweet potatoes with braised collard greens, black eyed peas and pecan spread. Another thing that sets Killer PoBoys apart is their use of Vietnamese banh mi mini loaves from esteemed bakery Dong Phuong, which make the ideal vessel for these uncommonly delicious culinary creations.
Mahoney’s Po-Boys – 901 Iberville St.; 3454 Magazine St.
This casual, family-friendly restaurant opened in 2008 in a quaint Creole cottage located Uptown. Mahoney’s popularity quickly spread thanks to its approachable, scratch-made New Orleans-style cuisine, served by friendly staff in a laid-back, welcoming setting. Ten years after the original location opened its doors, the thriving restaurant added a second location in the French Quarter. The spacious French Quarter spot boasts an oyster bar, a full bar shaking up craft cocktails, private event space, chic décor, ample seating and even a vintage sports car displayed in the dining room. The culinary wizards at Mahoney’s have perfected the art of taking the humble New Orleans po-boy to the next level by adding original, elevated touches. For example, the fried shrimp are marinated in Crystal Hot Sauce before being fried to golden brown, and the root beer glaze on the Chisesi’s ham turns an otherwise typical po-boy into an exceptional one. Other tempting selections include Grilled Shrimp Remi (jumbo Gulf shrimp, fried green tomatoes, remoulade sauce, lettuce and pickles), Creole Fried Alligator (garlic butter-tossed fried alligator, holy trinity Creole sauce, provolone, and garlic-pepper mayo) and
Angus ‘Pot Roast’ Beef (Angus beef knuckle braised in red wine, holy trinity and garlic, dressed with gravy). Mahoney’s has taken the top spot multiple times at the New Orleans Po-Boy Festival with winning gems like the flavor-packed Peacemaker (fried jumbo Gulf shrimp and oysters, cheddar cheese, and candied bacon, dressed) and the remarkable Chicken Livers & Slaw (lightly floured and fried chicken livers accented by Creole coleslaw and Creole mustard vinaigrette). Be sure to pair your po-boy with Mahoney’s famous thinly cut onion rings or opt for a local delicacy like crawfish étouffée, seafood gumbo, or crawfish Monica. You can’t leave Mahoney’s without reveling in their New Orleans Ice Cream “Po-Boy”—vanilla or Creole cream cheese ice cream nestled between chocolate chip cookies, then dipped in chocolate.
The Little Easy – 634 Julia St.
Located in the trendy Warehouse District, nestled amongst high-end art galleries and luxury condos, sits this unpretentious, pint-sized bar and eatery that can easily be overlooked. But if you’re seeking a casual, laid-back joint with tasty, frills-free fare and stiff cocktails served up by friendly staffers, then a pit-stop at The Little Easy is a great choice. At roughly 850 square feet, this small-scale pub may be tiny in stature, but is still capable of pumping out savory bites with big flavors. While po-boys make up the bulk of the modest menu, don’t expect your typical New Orleans-style sandwich. The self-proclaimed “home of the pressed po-boys” begins with the usual ingredients, including Leidenheimer French bread, which has been the preferred foundation of the many of the finest po-boy makers for more than 120 years, then takes an extra step by pressing it. Simply put: if a po-boy and a Cuban sandwich got together, this would be their love child. Belly up to the bar to catch your favorite team on one of several TVs or grab a sidewalk seat for great people watching while indulging in a signature pressed po-boys like the Cajun Dip (roast beef, cheddar cheese, grilled onions, house sauce and au jus for dipping), Hot Sausage (Patton’s spicy hot sausage patties layered with cheddar cheese and house sauce, a combo of mayo and mustard), Slow Cooked (pulled pork simmered in mojo sauce with choice of cheese), or a house-made meatball and red gravy po-boy accented by provolone, mozzarella and parmesan cheeses. Muffuletta fans won’t be disappointed by The Little Easy’s pressed version of the iconic Italian sandwich, which perfectly unites ham, salami, mortadella, Swiss cheese, and provolone with zesty marinated olive salad. Round out your noshing experience with an order of finger-licking-good Debris Fries, liberally topped with roast beef debris, gravy and cheddar cheese. Bargain hunters will hit the jackpot on Mondays with $15 steamed lobster and Wednesday Steak Night, which features a grilled to your liking sirloin with loaded baked potato and veggie for just 10 bucks! As for cocktails, cool off with one of their refreshing specialty drinks, such as the St. Julia (Deep Eddy Lemonade, St. Germaine, ginger beer, lemon juice and a splash of pineapple), or a well-crafted Moscow Mule made with vodka, ginger beer, fresh lime juice and Angostura Bitters.
Verti Marte – 1201 Royal St.
This bare-bones, hole-in-the-wall grocery and deli whips up homey, made-from-scratch favorites like your grand-maw used to make (think lasagna, meatloaf, stewed chicken, BBQ ribs, mac-n-cheese) as well as some of the tastiest (and messiest!) po-boys in town. The 24/7 mini-mart has been a French Quarter mainstay since 1968, providing locals with basics ranging from soft drinks to soup, Twinkies to toothpaste, while hungry locals and tourists line up out the door for affordable, generously-sized hot plates and appetizing po-boys to go. If saucy, run-down-your-arm po-boys that require a boatload of napkins are your thing, then this is your spot. Shimmy your way down the cramped aisles to order their number one selling All That Jazz, an over-the-top combo of grilled ham and turkey, fried shrimp, Swiss and American cheeses, grilled mushrooms and a liberal slathering of their house-made Wow Sauce, best described as a tangy mustard and mayo-based white remoulade. Other signature favs include the Ernie’s Power House (grilled shredded pork, grilled shrimp, bacon, Provolone and pepper cheeses, grilled mushrooms, olive salad and Wow Sauce) or the Verti Catfish (fried filet topped with grilled bell peppers and onions, BBQ and Wow Sauce. You can’t go wrong with classic options like the roast beef (tender shreds of beef dripping in a rich brown gravy), the flavorsome hot sausage, or perfectly crisped Gulf shrimp or oysters, all liberally stuffed into seeded French bread. The extensive menu boasts an array of breakfast po-boys as well, with basics like ham, egg and sausage on French or kick it up a notch with the Skillet on French, a belly-filling blend of ham, bell peppers, mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, cheese and hash browns covered in Wow Sauce, which makes the perfect day-drinking base. Their take-out only, over-sized po-boys are plenty big enough to share (although you’ll be tempted to try more than one!), so grab a cold beer and head to the Moon Walk to soak up a great view of the Mississippi River. This distinctly New Orleans establishment draws all walks of life, from local drag queens and street performers to famous foodies, including the late Anthony Bourdain, who popped in for his favorite muffuletta in town. Although the market is open 24/7, the deli does shutter for roughly two hours in the wee hours, so plan your visit accordingly. And on your way out, make sure to grab a fistful of napkins!
Other distinctive po-boys worth seeking out include:
Stanley’s: Eggs Benedict Poor Boy with Creole hollandaise.
NOLA Po-Boys: Da Yat—fried shrimp smothered in gumbo.
Frady’s One-Stop Food Store: French fry with roast beef gravy (or go totally old-school with liver cheese or bologna)
Mother’s: Ferdi Special—ham, roast beef, debris in au jus.
Desire Oyster Bar: The Swamp Daddy—fried catfish, crawfish and roast beef debris gravy
