Sippin' Into Summer

May 06, 2014
New Orleans and the French Quarter in particular bask in the spotlight as a superb destination for music, culture, food and drink, and other much-loved lifestyle preferences.

The French Quarter's many charms attract visitors from around the globe who appreciate historic architecture and a wide array of arts and entertainment stemming from the city's multi-cultural roots.

The depth and variety of live performances featuring blues, classical, rock and roll, and both traditional and modern jazz emanates from artists with local roots, many of whom are giants in the music world.

As for restaurants, guests can enjoy superb epicurean experiences accompanied by lovely libations from some of the world's most exciting dining establishments. Of course, there's so much more!

Although New Orleans has always boasted a reputation as a bastion of extraordinary spirits and compelling cocktails, the "Big Easy" has become even more of a libation-destination of late,

Some of the cocktail world's greatest potions and classic drink preparations came to fruition in this city such as Peychauds' bitters, Southern Comfort, the Sazerac, the Napoleon House's Pimm's Cup, the Hurricane, Grasshopper, brandy crusta and other spirited concoctions enjoyed both here and afar.

As the first cocktails reportedly were developed in New Orleans, it is only fitting that the city is home to the Museum of the American Cocktail, founded by King Cocktail himself, Dale Degroff and his artist wife, Jill. A James Beard Award winner, Degroff is credited with bringing back " the craft of the cocktail" several decades ago at New York's renowned Rainbow Room.

In addition, the world's largest cocktail festival, "Tales of the Cocktail" draws thousands of cocktail enthusiastss as well as industry representatives to New Orleans every summer. This year's event, July 16-20, features cocktail authors, top bartending and spirits professionals in seminars, tasting rooms, launching new products, hosting Spirited Dinners at noted local eateries and many other events.

New Orleans' bartending and mixology scene is ablaze with young guns as well as seasoned, veteran men and women who are adept at swizzling, shaking and stirring up a storm behind the bar. While revering the tried-and-true drink making mastery, they initiate twists on the classics and create innovative cocktails of their own design.

For example, manager Konrad Kantor presides over the bar at hot new French Quarter restaurant, Doris Metropolitan, 620 Chartres Street, A Tulane University business school graduate, Kantor was bartending in between selling real estate when he joined the Doris team.

"Within a couple of weeks, I was asked to establish a high end cocktail program that would live up to what the excellent chef - Shachar Kurgan - is doing in the kitchen," said Kantor. "I encourage our bartenders to be creative. During Prohibition, bartenders were just having fun. It was like a free for all, so much innovation in that time period," he said.

"Patrons want to experience creativity at the bar," he continued. "We make our own syrups, use all fresh juices, and we're following the lead from our innovative, open kitchen." The elaborate workings of the chef and his staff can be observed from the bar.

Kantor expresses pride that the bar has evolved into "something very special. All of our bartenders have their own regular customers. We entertain many locals who are neighbors as well as returning visitors who stop in when they're in town."

Doris' bar uses bitters from a local company, El Guapo, and features barrel aged cocktails, an idea developed by bartender Nick Maziejka. "We portion out the ingredients, perhaps scotch, rye or bourbon, honey syrup, sweet vermouth, molasses and other spirits and age them in oak for 6-8 weeks.

Maziejka also came up with a frozen ice drink. "We freeze some cocktail ingredients in an ice ball we call a 'futureball,' " said Kantor. The ice ball may contain an orange peel, cherry, liqueur and other ingredients." As it melts, it changes the dynamics of the drink in which it's inserted he said,

Among the many popular drinks served at Doris this summer, guests can enjoy a Sangre Fria, made with Tres Agaves Reposado Tequila, house-made ginger syrup, fresh citrus, El Guapo bitters, and fresh mint from the restaurant's courtyard garden.

The Doris Sazerac is based on the aforementioned Dale Degroff's adaptation of the classic cocktail with Pierre Ferrand 1841 cognac, Sazerac rye whiskey, Angostora and The Bitter Truth bitters and house made Steens molasses reduction.

Tucked into a corner of the most historic square in the city, Jackson, Muriel's not only is a repository for almost 300 years of experiences, it is also "rumored" to be haunted. The bar and restaurant have done nothing to detract from those stories, and in fact have added to the possibility of a presence with a table always set for a "visitor," a staircase in which Gregorian chants echo continuously, and an upstairs seance room just in case an appropriate moment arises.

As is quite typical of the dining and cocktail communities in New Orleans, the indoor, courtyard bar at Muriel's is presided over by a native of the city, Mary Hulse., a most talented mixologist.

Interestingly enough, since the English never were able to conquer this French/Spanish/American plot of earth, one of Mary's featured drinks is an English 101. It's the proper mix of Pimm's No. 1 Liqueur, Beefeater gin, orange marmalade, lime and a muddled cucumber.

Mary's version of the Hurricane skews off in a slightly different direction than its counterpart from a few blocks away, making use of fresh orange and pineapple juice, both light and dark rum, 151, and just a touch of grenadine.

Perfect for a delightful evening in a delightful place, the Moonlight is a balanced combination of Lillet Blanc, sweet vermouth, allspice dram, lemon juice and Blue Moon.

A super summer drink is Mary's Festival Cooler featuring Rain cucumber vodka, house made watermelon-cilantro juice and lime.

While New Orleans' bars are usually not "clubby," French 75 at Arnaud's absolutely fits that description. And here again, the "guy behind the stick" and head bartender is a transplanted local from a Navy family that moved around, lots!

Chris Hannah, practically never seen without his black bow tie and starched whites, fits in perfectly with the "gentlemen's" atmosphere since this was a men's only bar for much of its history.

The name of the bar gives homage to a French cannon from World War II, and Mr. Hannah constructs the drink to perfection. A French 75 is the topic of great debate among cocktail historians about whether the drink was first made with gin or cognac as the core spirit. French 75 Bar at Arnaud's respects the wishes of its owners from long ago and uses Cognac, which was their preference. Courvoisier VS, to be exact. A modicum of sugar, lemon juice, and then topped with Moet et Chandon Champagne, Brut.

A nod to New York is acknowledged with the 5th Avenue Fashion, featuring gin, Pimms No. 1, strawberry and passion fruit.

"We have fun with summer cocktails," said Hannah. Another refreshing, artisan cocktail he crafted is a light pisco punch with pineapple gum syrup made at the bar and lemon juice.

Since St. Louis Cathedral is only a few blocks away, Chris has created The Bishop Cocktail, which also features pisco and includes rum, Cabernet syrup, and lime juice. There is no word on whether His Excellency has enjoyed one of these or not.

Chris looks to his favorite Holiday with The Carnival Cocktail, fresh grapefruit juice, Cheery Heering, Absinthe, and Genever. This reminds Chris of his Mardi Gras tradition of rising early, making a huge concoction of a cocktail in a garbage pail (clean and never used), placing the drink in a shopping cart and going through the streets of the Quarter dispensing the drink, at no charge, to anyone who looks like they would enjoy the beverage.

Yes, when not behind the bar, these super talented French Quarter bartenders walk among us! Cheers!